Day 4 (March 10, 2014): Madeira's north shore wins, hands down

Day three started late:  it was 7:00AM when I finally conquered my insomnia beast and got to sleep, so Pam didn't wake me until 9:15AM.  By the time we ate breakfast and left the hotel, it was almost 11:00AM.  That doesn't happen very often on a Burton trip, trust me!

We set out for the northwest of the island (not the northeast, as I mentioned in my blog last night), with the expectation that we would face twisty, steep-ascent roads like yesterday.  But that turned out NOT to be the case, happily.  Madeira is a place where a 50km jaunt can take a lonnnnng time.  But thanks to heavy investments from the EU (part of the reason why Portugal is on the brink of economic ruin), an extensinve tunnel network has recently been completed, shaving much time off the distances and significantly enhancing safety.

The ultimate destination was Porto Moniz on the north coast, with stops in Seixal, Sao Vincente, Cabo Girao and Camara de Lobos.  Cabo Girao boasts the highest cliffs in Europe with a 1903' vertical drop.  And, of course, a glass-floor viewing platform extending out over it to add screams to the experience!  

We then set out through the interior of the island towards the north, expecting it to take over an hour.  But after about 20
minutes, we rounded a corner and there was the ocean in front of us!  We were stunned to arrive at Sao Vincente so quickly, and also to find the Grotten Caves so easily, arriving just in time for the departure of a guided cave tour.  No stalactites or stalagmites, but a neat place all the same.

After Sao Vicente, we soon hit the north coast.  Gob-smacked, we were.  Norway's fijords, Newfoundland's Gros Morne, and Hawaii's rugged coastline -- none are more impressive than Madeira's coastline.  It wasn't just the sheer height of the mountains, but it was the terraced agricultural approach and crazy building schemes that worked their way up the mountain sides that -- in addition to the endless waterfalls, pounding waves and huge surf -- that made it so stunning.

We stopped for lunch at Seixal, which has a neat lava pool.  As in nearby Porto Moniz (the terminus for our drive today) Seixal's lava pool is a naturally formed shallow pool enclosed by lava formations.  The shallow waters heat up easily in summer, and are very popular for swimming.  But today, all lava pools were empty.  Despite the 20C temperature and sun, it is still too cold to enter the waters.

The coastline also boasts some amazing rock formations. Awesome!

Seixal remains relatively unspoiled, whereas Porto Moniz is adorned with all the kitsch of a tourist trap -- the ubiquitous aqaurium, the endless souvenir shops and restaurants, etc.  Still, however, it is a very attractive little town and has a very impressive lava coastline. 

We left Port Moniz at 3:30 PM to work our way through the interior again.  Back on the south shore, we popped into the quaint fishing town of Camara de Lobos.  Its little harbour is filled with brightly painted fishing boats and the smell of fish permeates the air.  We had heard that monk seals sun themselves on the rocks, but they must have all been chasing fish today, as not one was to be seen.

As with most towns on Madeira, Camara de lobos has terraced agricultural land above it -- in its case, for growing bananas. 

We pulled into the hotel at 5:00 PM on the nose.  Soon after, we had coffee and biscuits on our balcony.  I then went for a swim in the outdoor pool, while Pam took pictures of the local area around the hotel.

Dinner was at 7:00 PM -- yes, I hate to admit it, but we returned to the hotel restaurant yet again:  I was too tempted by Pam's beef wellington last night, so that was my selection, while she had steak.  

And so endeth another day in Madeira.  Tomorrow, we will explore the northeast, and will head to the airport up that way, for our 5:00 PM flight to the Azores.

Sleep well, wherever you are!